SALVADOR BAHIA
Travel Blog to Salvador de Bahia: A Comprehensive Guide
City Overview
Salvador de Bahia, the capital of the state of Bahia, is a city steeped in history and cultural richness. Founded in 1549, it was the first capital of colonial Brazil and remained so for over two centuries. This longevity as a political and cultural center has left Salvador with a rich legacy of historical sites, cultural traditions, and a vibrant artistic scene.
Walking through Salvador’s historic center, known as Pelourinho, feels like stepping back in time. The cobblestone streets are lined with well-preserved colonial buildings, many of which are painted in bright, pastel colors. The area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its importance in preserving the architecture and culture of the colonial period. Churches like São Francisco, with its stunning baroque interior covered in gold leaf, and the imposing Cathedral Basilica of Salvador, are testaments to the city's historical and religious significance.
Salvador is also the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture, a culture that is palpable in every corner of the city. The rhythms of samba and axe music fill the streets, particularly during the city’s famous Carnival. The Afro-Brazilian religion of Candomblé, with its roots in West African traditions, is also widely practiced here, and visitors can explore its rituals and ceremonies in various terreiros (places of worship) throughout the city.
How to Get There
Salvador is well-connected both domestically and internationally. The city’s airport, Deputado Luís Eduardo Magalhães International Airport (SSA), is a major hub in the northeastern region of Brazil. The airport is located about 28 kilometers from the city center, and it offers direct flights to and from major cities such as São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Brasilia, and Recife, as well as international destinations including Miami, Lisbon, and Buenos Aires.
Upon arrival, travelers have several options for getting into the city. Taxis and ride-sharing services like Uber are readily available at the airport and can take you directly to your hotel. There is also an airport shuttle service that runs to various points in the city, including the popular neighborhoods of Barra and Pelourinho. For those on a tighter budget, public buses are available, though they may take longer and are less convenient, especially with luggage.
If you’re traveling to Salvador from within Brazil, long-distance buses are another option. The city’s main bus terminal, Terminal Rodoviário de Salvador, connects Salvador with other major cities in the region and beyond. While the bus journey can be long, it’s often more affordable than flying and allows you to see more of the Brazilian countryside.
For those coming from nearby islands like Morro de São Paulo or Itaparica, ferries and catamarans are available. These provide a scenic way to arrive in Salvador, offering views of the stunning coastline and the Bay of All Saints.
3. Budget
When planning your trip to Salvador, it's important to consider your budget as the city offers a range of experiences that can cater to different types of travelers—from budget-conscious backpackers to those seeking luxury.
Accommodation: Depending on your choice of lodging, daily accommodation costs can range widely. Budget travelers can find hostels in areas like Pelourinho or Barra for as little as $30 USD per night for a shared room. Mid-range hotels or guesthouses typically cost between $50 and $70 USD per night, offering private rooms with basic amenities. For a more luxurious experience, beachfront hotels or boutique accommodations in the historic center can range from $100 to $300 USD per night, providing top-notch services, pools, and incredible views.
Food: Salvador is a haven for food lovers, and you can eat well on almost any budget. Street food is abundant and delicious, with acarajé stands being particularly popular—these deep-fried black-eyed pea balls filled with shrimp can be had for around $2 to $3 USD. In local restaurants, a hearty meal of traditional Bahian cuisine, such as moqueca or bobó de camarão, costs between $7 and $15 USD. For those seeking a fine dining experience, Salvador has several upscale restaurants where a meal can cost upwards of $40 USD per person.
Transportation: Getting around Salvador is relatively inexpensive. Public buses cover most of the city and cost around $1 USD per ride. Taxis and ride-sharing services are more convenient, especially at night or when traveling with luggage, with typical fares ranging from $5 to $15 USD depending on the distance. If you plan to visit multiple sites or explore beyond the city, renting a car might be a good option, with daily rates starting at $25 USD.
Activities: Entrance fees for major attractions are generally affordable. For example, a visit to the Afro-Brazilian Museum costs around $3 USD, and guided tours of the Pelourinho neighborhood range from $10 to $20 USD. Beach activities, such as renting chairs and umbrellas, typically cost around $5 to $10 USD. If you’re planning to take part in special events or excursions, such as a boat tour of the Bay of All Saints or a visit to nearby islands, prices can range from $20 to $50 USD per person.
In total, a traveler with a moderate budget should expect to spend between $60 and $150 USD per day in Salvador, depending on the level of comfort and activities chosen.
4. Where to Stay
Salvador offers a wide range of accommodation options, catering to different tastes and budgets. The choice of where to stay will largely depend on your interests and the type of experience you’re looking for.
Pelourinho: For those interested in history, culture, and vibrant street life, Pelourinho is the ideal neighborhood. This area is the historic heart of Salvador, and staying here allows you to fully immerse yourself in the city’s rich heritage. Many of the buildings have been converted into boutique hotels and guesthouses, offering a unique opportunity to stay in beautifully restored colonial structures. While accommodation here can range from budget hostels to luxury hotels, the charm of staying in such a historically significant area is unparalleled. Pelourinho is also a hub of nightlife, with music spilling out of bars and restaurants, making it a lively place to stay.
Barra: If you prefer to be close to the beach, the neighborhood of Barra is an excellent choice. Located at the southern tip of the city, Barra is home to some of Salvador’s most popular beaches, including Porto da Barra and Farol da Barra. The area is well-served by hotels ranging from budget to upscale, and many offer stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. Barra is also home to several historical sites, such as the Barra Lighthouse and the nearby Forte de Santa Maria, adding cultural elements to your beachside stay. The neighborhood is quieter at night compared to Pelourinho, making it a good option for those looking for a more relaxed atmosphere.
Rio Vermelho: Known for its vibrant nightlife and bohemian vibe, Rio Vermelho is the place to stay if you’re looking to experience Salvador’s contemporary culture. The neighborhood is packed with bars, restaurants, and music venues, offering plenty of options for evening entertainment. Accommodation in Rio Vermelho is diverse, ranging from affordable hostels to stylish boutique hotels. The area also has a strong connection to Salvador’s Afro-Brazilian heritage, with many cultural events and religious ceremonies taking place here. Rio Vermelho is located along the coast, so while it’s not a beach destination like Barra, you’ll still find stunning ocean views and a lively atmosphere.
Stella Maris and Itapuã: For those seeking a more tranquil and upscale experience, the coastal neighborhoods of Stella Maris and Itapuã, located near the airport, offer a range of luxury hotels and resorts. These areas are known for their beautiful, expansive beaches, and they are perfect for those looking to relax and enjoy a more secluded environment. The hotels here often cater to travelers looking for a more resort-like experience, with amenities such as spas, gourmet restaurants, and private beach access.
5. Gastronomy
Salvador’s culinary scene is a reflection of its diverse cultural heritage, with strong influences from African, Portuguese, and Indigenous traditions. The food in Salvador is characterized by its bold flavors, rich use of spices, and the ubiquitous presence of dendê oil (palm oil), which gives many dishes their distinctive color and taste.
Acarajé: Perhaps the most iconic street food of Salvador, acarajé is a must-try for any visitor. These deep-fried balls made from black-eyed peas are filled with a savory mix of vatapá (a creamy paste made from bread, shrimp, coconut milk, and spices), caruru (a condiment made from okra, shrimp, and spices), and fresh shrimp. Acarajé is traditionally served by Baianas, women dressed in white, who sell it from street stalls throughout the city, particularly in Pelourinho and Rio Vermelho.
Moqueca: Moqueca is a delicious seafood stew that is a staple of Bahian cuisine. The dish is typically made with fish or shrimp, cooked in a fragrant broth of coconut milk, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and dendê oil. The result is a rich, flavorful dish that is often served with rice and farofa (toasted cassava flour). Each family or restaurant may have its own variation of moqueca, making it a dish that can be enjoyed multiple times during your stay, each time offering a slightly different experience.
Bobó de Camarão: Another classic Bahian dish, bobó de camarão is a creamy shrimp dish made with mashed yuca (cassava), coconut milk, and dendê oil. The dish is thickened with yuca, giving it a hearty texture, and is often served with rice. It’s a comforting and satisfying meal, perfect for a hearty lunch or dinner after a day of exploring the city.
Caruru: Often served as a side dish, caruru is made from okra, shrimp, peanuts, and cashews, all cooked in dendê oil. It’s typically served alongside acarajé or as part of a larger meal, adding a unique and flavorful component to the dining experience.
Quindim: For dessert, try quindim, a sweet treat made from sugar, egg yolks, and coconut. This bright yellow dessert has a custard-like texture and a rich coconut flavor, offering a delicious way to end a meal.
Salvador also has a thriving restaurant scene, with options ranging from casual eateries to fine dining establishments. In neighborhoods like Rio Vermelho and Barra, you’ll find a mix of traditional Bahian restaurants and contemporary spots serving international cuisine. For a more immersive culinary experience, consider taking a cooking class to learn how to prepare some of these traditional dishes yourself.
6. Activities
Salvador is a city full of life and offers a wide range of activities to suit all interests. Whether you’re a history buff, a beach lover, or someone looking to immerse yourself in local culture, Salvador has something for you.
Exploring Pelourinho: Start your visit by exploring Pelourinho, Salvador’s historic center. This area is home to some of the city’s most important cultural and architectural landmarks. Take a guided walking tour to learn about the history of the neighborhood, visit the Church of São Francisco with its ornate baroque interior, and explore the many museums that showcase Afro-Brazilian art and culture. Pelourinho is also a great place to shop for local crafts and souvenirs, with many artisan shops selling handmade jewelry, textiles, and artwork.
Beaches of Salvador: Salvador boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil. Porto da Barra is one of the most popular, offering calm waters ideal for swimming and stunning sunset views. For a more laid-back experience, head to Praia do Forte, located about an hour from the city, where you can relax on the sandy shores or visit the nearby turtle sanctuary. Itapuã Beach, made famous by the Brazilian musician Vinícius de Moraes, is another great option, known for its golden sands and vibrant beach culture.
Afro-Brazilian Museum: Located in the Pelourinho neighborhood, the Afro-Brazilian Museum is dedicated to the history and culture of Africans in Brazil. The museum’s exhibits include artifacts, artworks, and religious items that tell the story of the African diaspora in Brazil. It’s a fascinating place to learn about the cultural and spiritual traditions that have shaped Salvador and continue to influence the city today.
Elevador Lacerda: For one of the best views in Salvador, take a ride on the Elevador Lacerda. This iconic elevator connects the upper and lower parts of the city, and from the top, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Bay of All Saints and the Mercado Modelo below. The elevator is a symbol of Salvador and a must-visit for any traveler.
Mercado Modelo: Located in the lower city, the Mercado Modelo is one of Salvador’s most famous markets. Here, you can browse stalls selling everything from handicrafts to local delicacies. It’s a great place to pick up souvenirs or sample Bahian snacks like acarajé and cocada (a coconut-based sweet). The market is also home to several bars and restaurants, making it a good spot to take a break and enjoy the lively atmosphere.
Boat Tours of the Bay of All Saints: One of the best ways to see Salvador from a different perspective is to take a boat tour of the Bay of All Saints. These tours typically visit some of the islands in the bay, such as Itaparica and Frades, where you can swim, snorkel, and enjoy a day of relaxation. The bay is one of the largest in the world, and a boat tour offers stunning views of the coastline and the city.
Visiting the Bonfim Church: The Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim is one of the most important religious sites in Salvador. Located in the lower city, this church is a center of devotion for both Catholics and practitioners of Candomblé. The church is famous for its colorful ribbons, known as fitas, which are tied to the church’s gates and worn as a symbol of faith. The interior of the church is also worth exploring, with its impressive neoclassical design and beautiful tilework.
Nightlife in Rio Vermelho: For those looking to experience Salvador’s vibrant nightlife, the neighborhood of Rio Vermelho is the place to be. This bohemian area is filled with bars, clubs, and live music venues, offering something for every taste. Whether you want to dance the night away to samba and axe music, enjoy a quiet drink by the sea, or listen to live jazz, Rio Vermelho has it all. The area is also known for its street food, with many vendors setting up stalls late into the night, offering everything from acarajé to grilled meats.
7. Festivals
Salvador is renowned for its lively festivals, many of which are rooted in the city’s Afro-Brazilian culture and religious traditions. These festivals offer visitors a chance to experience Salvador’s unique spirit and community.
Carnival of Salvador: The Carnival of Salvador is one of the most famous and largest in the world, attracting millions of people each year. Unlike the more structured Carnival in Rio de Janeiro, Salvador’s Carnival is known for its participation and inclusivity. The festivities take place over several days in February or March, depending on the date of Lent, and are centered around three main circuits in the city: Campo Grande, Barra-Ondina, and Pelourinho. The celebration features parades, live music performances by some of Brazil’s most famous artists, and blocos—groups of revelers who follow the music through the streets. The energy and excitement of Carnival are unmatched, making it an unforgettable experience for anyone lucky enough to attend.
Iemanjá Festival: Held on February 2nd, the Iemanjá Festival is one of Salvador’s most important religious celebrations. The festival honors Iemanjá, the goddess of the sea in the Candomblé religion. Thousands of people gather at Rio Vermelho beach to make offerings to the goddess, including flowers, perfumes, and jewelry, which are placed in small boats and sent out to sea. The festival is a vibrant and colorful event, with music, dancing, and food, as well as a deep sense of spirituality and reverence.
Lavagem do Bonfim: Taking place in January, Lavagem do Bonfim is a unique blend of Catholic and Afro-Brazilian religious traditions. The festival begins with a procession from the Church of Conceição da Praia to the Church of Bonfim, where the steps of the church are washed with scented water. The event is accompanied by music, dancing, and plenty of food and drink. Lavagem do Bonfim is one of Salvador’s most beloved festivals, attracting thousands of participants and spectators each year.
São João Festival: Celebrated in June, the São João Festival is a traditional Brazilian celebration of the harvest season. In Salvador, the festival is marked by street parties, fireworks, and the lighting of bonfires. People dress in traditional costumes, and there is plenty of music, dancing, and feasting. São João is a time of great joy and celebration, offering a glimpse into the rural traditions of Bahia.
Festa da Boa Morte: Held in August in the town of Cachoeira, near Salvador, the Festa da Boa Morte (Festival of the Good Death) is a deeply spiritual event rooted in Afro-Brazilian traditions. The festival is organized by the Irmandade da Boa Morte, a sisterhood of Afro-Brazilian women, and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the ancestors. The festival includes religious ceremonies, processions, music, and feasts, offering a unique insight into the spiritual life of the Afro-Brazilian community.
8. Conclusion
Salvador de Bahia is a city that captures the essence of Brazil in all its diversity and vibrancy. From its rich history and stunning colonial architecture to its vibrant Afro-Brazilian culture and world-famous festivals, Salvador offers an experience like no other. Whether you’re exploring the colorful streets of Pelourinho, relaxing on its beautiful beaches, or dancing to the rhythms of samba during Carnival, Salvador invites you to immerse yourself in its unique blend of traditions, flavors, and rhythms.
A visit to Salvador is not just a journey through one of Brazil’s most culturally significant cities; it’s an opportunity to connect with the soul of the nation itself. For any traveler seeking to understand Brazil’s heart and heritage, Salvador is a destination that cannot be missed.